2026-03-17
Dyeing for Great Hair

About 33% of women aged 18 and older and 10% of men over 40 dye their hair. With growing concerns regarding the safety of beauty products, the harmful chemical components in traditional hair dyes are facing increased scrutiny. What are we actually applying to conceal those unwanted greys?

Occupational Risks

While modern hair dyes are significantly less toxic than those produced before 1980, research indicates that certain health risks still exist. A study from 2010 revealed a “statistically significant increase in the risk of bladder cancer among hairdressers, particularly those who had been in the profession for ten years or longer.”

How can we ensure that the hair color we choose is safe? Health Canada emphasizes that “it is the responsibility of the company to guarantee that a cosmetic product is safe for its intended use.” As consumers of hair dye, it may be prudent for us to educate ourselves about the safety of the chemicals in the products we select.

Concerning Chemicals

Here are some common ingredients found in conventional hair dyes, along with their potential health risks:

Hydrogen Peroxide

In our quest to eliminate grey hair, we may inadvertently contribute to hair loss! A study conducted in 2012 found a link between hydrogen peroxide and monoethanolamine in hair dye to skin irritation and hair loss.

Ammonia

This common household cleaner carries a corrosive warning on its label, leading users to wear gloves. Yet, what about when we color our hair? A 2011 study examining hairdressers’ exposure to ammonia connected it to upper respiratory issues and dermatitis affecting the hands, wrists, and arms.

Coal Tar Derivatives

Both the National Toxicology Program and the International Agency for Research on Cancer classify coal tar derivatives as known human carcinogens. Common names for these ingredients include aminophenol, diaminobenzene, and p-phenylenediamine (PPD).

While the European Union considers PPD toxic, it remains prevalent in Canadian hair dyes. Labels for permanent and semi-permanent dyes must warn of potential skin irritation and recommend patch tests before use. These substances can lead to skin issues like blistering, burning sensations, and itching.

Parabens

Common preservatives like propylparaben, butylparaben, isopropylparaben, and isobutylparaben may mimic estrogen, leading to endocrine disruption as well as developmental and reproductive issues. Due to their widespread usage in cosmetics, these chemicals are often found in nearly everyone’s system, according to U.S. researchers.

Phthalates

Recognized as endocrine disruptors, these chemicals may contribute to cancer, infertility, and diabetes. They are also found in everyday products like air fresheners and sunscreens.

Resorcinol

This ingredient, deemed “not permitted in cosmetics intended for skin use” by Health Canada due to its irritant and immunotoxic nature, frequently triggers hair dye allergies. But isn’t hair dye applied to the scalp?

If you’ve ever experienced an itchy, irritated scalp after coloring your hair, this knowledge may be unsettling. So, what are we willing to compromise for beautiful hair?

While stunning hair can make a significant impression, renowned stylist James Abu-Ulba, education director at Spa Utopia Health and Wellness Center, insists we don’t have to jeopardize our health for brilliant color.

With over 15 years of experience, he emphasizes the importance for stylists to be aware of the ingredients in the products they use. He advises consumers to seek out companies and stylists whose values align with their own when searching for quality and safer dyes.

Safety Guidelines

When selecting a hair dye, opt for brands that:

  • Formulate products with low toxicity
  • Do not test on animals
  • Actively work to minimize their carbon footprint
  • Educate retailers about their products’ unique features

After weighing the true cost of dyeing hair, it becomes clear that it’s perfectly fine to experiment with color—as long as we don’t end up overwhelming our bodies with toxins. While returning to our natural shade might be easier on our health and budget, we can still enjoy vibrant colors.

By undertaking some research into the substances we’re exposing ourselves to, we can discover healthier alternatives for achieving our desired hue. Make it a point to know what’s in your hair dye, and if you’re not sure, perhaps consider skipping the color treatment.

Safe Hair Coloring Tips

Examine the label for ingredient details of your preferred product, or consult your stylist, who should ideally be knowledgeable about the dye being applied.

  • Follow the package instructions carefully.
  • If coloring at home, always wear gloves.
  • Perform a patch test for allergic reactions before coloring.
  • Consider coloring less frequently. While many stylists suggest coloring every six weeks, extending this to eight weeks can be beneficial.
  • Avoid drastic color changes. Black dyes often contain higher levels of toxic substances, while blonde dyes typically have the highest peroxide content.
  • Never dye your eyebrows or eyelashes.
  • If uncertain, refer to Health Canada’s cosmetic ingredients “Hotlist” for a list of restricted or prohibited chemicals in hair dye formulations.

Safer Hair Dye Options

Low Toxicity

Select dyes that are ammonia-free and do not contain parabens, peroxide, or phthalates whenever possible.

Natural Ingredients

Look for hair dyes formulated from natural plant-based ingredients like beet and turmeric.

Henna

Derived from the ground leaves of the henna plant, this natural dye requires more time for application than commercial products. For effective grey coverage, henna must be applied with care, as it can turn unsuspecting greys bright orange!

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